Sidetracked at Bamburgh Castle and Lindisfarne - Karl Chronicles - Post #178

Dear reader, although there may be some bias in my opinion, the Northumberland coast—the 100-kilometre stretch of coast from Cresswell in the south to Berwick-upon-Tweed in the north—has the most beautiful landscape in England. Miles and miles of seemingly never-before-explored beaches dotted with majestic castles, idyllic villages, seaside restaurants, and cozy pubs. So, before crossing the northern border to Scotland, I sidetracked to visit Bamburgh Castle and Holy Island. 

Bamburgh Castle

Standing majestically on the Northumberland coastline for 1400 years, Bamburgh Castle is a grand testament to history and architecture. Its imposing position atop a high basalt crag grants it unparalleled views of the vast sand dunes and the untamed North Sea. 

The castle's rich history includes serving as a temporary home and prison for Scottish nobles, enduring the tumultuous Wars of the Roses, and later undergoing restoration efforts by Lord Armstrong. Today, under the ownership of the Armstrong family, Bamburgh Castle is open to the public and it’s an incredible location to to experience its historical legacy firsthand.

Yet, while the castle's allure is undeniable, my feet are drawn to the beach below. The vast expanse of sandy dunes, stretching alongside the wild sea, beckons me. Though the weather will rarely permit lounging in the sun and taking a refreshing dip, for me, the perfect beach experience is not about basking in warmth but about wandering for miles along a stunning sandy stretch. With the wind tousling my hair as I pause to capture captivating moments through my lens, Bamburgh offers me that ideal beach escapade in abundance.

Lindisfarne

The most important factor when planning a visit to Lindisfarne, which is also known as Holy Island, is checking the tide calendar.  Lindisfarne is an island off the very northeast corner of England and only accessible by a 3-mile paved causeway that you can only see when the tide is out. The “Crossing Times” have two lists — when it’s safe and when it’s unsafe, and there is no in-between, as verified by the photos from the coastguard search and rescue team of those visitors who did not plan their crossing. Of course, dear reader, that was not my fate and planned my visit accordingly. 

There’s an immediate feeling of tranquility that washes over you when you arrive in Lindisfarne. It’s a small community of only 160 people—albeit hundreds of extra people during tourist season—but being there feels like you are “in” on a secret, where you can see the magic of a place. 

Lindisfarne is considered one of the most important locations of early English Christianity. Originally settled by Irish monks in AD635. When a monk named Cuthbert joined the monastery, he became a bit of a legend and reformed the monks' life to follow Rome's religious practices. In the subsequent years, Lindisfarne was attacked by Vikings. Still, then the monks returned in 1069 with the relics of now ‘Saint’ Cuthbert, making Lindisfarne once again an active religious site and building a new priory from that early monastery. Today, the priory ruins from the 12th century remain visible and have become a place of pilgrimage. 

Also on the island (that’s not really an island) is a castle that’s not really a castle. At one time, it was a garrison to protect the border during the wars with Scotland. But in 1901, the Castle was privately purchased and remodelled, and in 1945, it was left to the National Trust. My only regret in my second visit to Holy Island was not being able to stay longer, but there is a reason we have the proverb: “Time and Tide wait for none”. 

And with that, dear reader, this was my last stop in England. 

In the newspaper article of May 20th, Karl shared: “I crossed the river Tweed on the 8th of May, and arrived at Berwick, which is neither in England nor Scotland, so the people about there told me. Geographically it is in Scotland, but politically in England.” 

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