Creelman’s Views, published May 20th, where Karl shared his travels from Hull to Edinburgh, goes on to write:
“Continuing north, I cycled to Alnwick, an old town noted for its walls and castles, arriving opposite the town pump on May 7th at noon. All the villages and small towns have their “town pumps,” which generally stands close to the main street, in the centre of the town, and is, of course, free to all. The larger towns nearly all have a brewery, and the cities boast of two or three, and even more sometimes.
The Duke of Northumberland resides at Alnwick in a large stone castle, on top of which are some iron figures of men, with rifles in their hands, put there as a sign to the Scotchmen that in the castle they were always on the watch for the foe, in the days of the bitter struggles between the people of England and Scotland.”
During Karl’s visit, Henry George Percy served as the 7th Duke of Northumberland (1846 – 1918), marking centuries of the Percy family's association with Alnwick Castle, spanning over 700 years. Between Karl’s visit and mine, five more Dukes have taken the title, with the current holder being the 12th Duke, Ralph George Algernon Percy. Beyond its historical significance, the castle is part of a vast estate encompassing over 132,000 acres of land, leased to tenant farmers and valued at an estimated £315 million.
The castle's construction began in 1096, and over time, it witnessed numerous invasions, including the 'Battle of Alnwick' and the 'Ambush of Alnwick.' Both resisted despite Scottish persistence. Its ownership passed through several hands before being acquired by Henry Percy in 1309 from the Bishop of Durham.
Over centuries, the castle underwent architectural transformations, evolving from a fortress to a gothic castle and later reverting to a medieval stronghold turned ducal residence. Stone figures were added to the battlements during Henry Percy's era. Their purpose—either for visual appeal or intimidation—remains uncertain.
During Karl's stay, seven figures in medieval armour adorned the castle's battlements. Now, they serve as spectators to daily broomstick training sessions on the castle grounds. Young and old visitors attempt to emulate the magic of flight, recreating Harry Potter's iconic flying lessons filmed here for the adaptations of Philosopher’s Stone and the Chamber of Secrets.
Today, tours of the expansive grounds and staterooms offer insights into Alnwick Castle's rich history, including anecdotes about its role in various film and television productions. Notably, the castle stood in for the fictional Brancaster Castle in Downton Abbey, with memorable behind-the-scenes moments like the aromatic mishap while filming a long dining scene that started with “fresh” salmon.
For Karl, the true allure lay in immersing himself in the place's historical significance rather than chasing fleeting moments of celebrity or glamour. I was able to experience both!
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