While I don't align with any particular religious beliefs, an undeniable force draws me into the heart of places where people come to worship, commune, and embrace their shared faith. The blend of architecture, rituals, and ambiance within these sacred spaces may differ vastly, yet despite these distinctions, they all share an allure that calls me to step within their midst.
In recognizing my privilege to explore these religious places and connect to a broader, communal spiritual journey, I approach each encounter with curiosity and respect for diverse beliefs. My motivation to explore these environments is deeply rooted in my appreciation for their historical significance and cultural nuances. I discover a profound solace when enveloped in the sanctity of these spaces.
My agnostic stance broadens my horizons, propelling me to seek various sanctuaries where religious practices, rituals, and worship intertwine. I've marvelled at the soaring arches, ribbed vaults, and intricate stained glass windows of Cologne Cathedral, stood in awe beneath the minarets and domes of Mosques, and been captivated by the mosaic masterpieces adorning St. Isaac's Cathedral in St. Petersburg. However diverse the settings, the moments that etch into my memory most deeply are those spent within religious spaces, where time seems suspended, and I find myself in utter peace. These experiences have graced me in locations like the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Oman, and staring at the iconic onion domes of St. Basil's Cathedral as they pierce the sky in Red Square.
To awaken to the rhythmic call of prayer in Islamic lands or to be reminded of the time of day while listening to the intricacies of cathedral bells is an experience of mindfulness, grounding me in a moment and offering a sense of peace.
All this is to say, dear reader, that a significant portion of my time following Karl in India was also apportioned to exploring various temples. Building on the narrative of Temple Tales Part 1, where I shared images of the Shore Temple of Mahabalipuram, I also wanted to share my visit to the magnificent Brihadeeswarar Temple in Thanjavur.
One of the largest temples in India, Brihadeeswarar was built during the Chola period in 1010 AD and, similar to Mahabalipuram, is an example of Dravidian architecture. The temple is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site known as the “Great Living Chola Temples”.
Brihadeeswarar Temple, meaning "Big Temple," earns its title from the towering vimanam (temple tower), which ranks as the world's tallest at a remarkable height of 66 meters. Adding to its stature is the Kumbam (apex or bulbous structure atop), carved from an astonishing 80-ton granite block. The temple resides amidst fortified walls constructed in the 16th century. Upon entering the temple complex through the ornate gateway, one encounters the monumental stone Nandi — the sacred bull of Lord Shiva — a figure of profound significance and the second largest in India.
Devotees perceive Nandi as the divine gatekeeper, granting access to the presence of Lord Shiva. During specific festivals and occasions, the stone bull undergoes elaborate rituals. The " puja " ritual involves offerings like sandalwood paste, turmeric water, saffron, milk, yogurt, ghee, honey, lime juice, and rose water, poured over Nandi. The bull is then cleansed with water before adorned with flower garlands. These acts of devotion draw crowds of thousands, and I was fortunate that my visit coincided with the bathing ritual of Nandi.
I visited the temple during the evening, and the sheer abundance of details within the temple complex proved almost overwhelming. To truly absorb the experience, I opted not to rush and found myself drawn back to Brihadeeswarar the following day. Sometimes, dear reader, I need to see these images again to believe I was there because it seems surreal.
Perhaps this is my faith—a surrender to a place where meaning resides within the inexplicable, a realm where the mysteries of life, death, and the moments in between can be contemplated. It's a sanctuary that provides confidence in the goodness of humanity and the shared collective. I hope these images of my time at the Brihadeeswarar temple also transport you to this profound place.
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