Karl cycled north from Seattle to Vancouver, as reported in the newspaper from November 12, 1899:
Arriving here at 7:30 pm November 1st, my cyclometer registered 5320 miles. I walked some of that, about 700 miles or more which is more walking than I will do for a long time yet. The Empress of China sails on December 4th and if possible I will work my way over the Pacific on her as she is the first boat out. I am going to cut my tour of Japan and China as short as possible, also Australia and reach the Transvaal as soon as I can, get there. I may see the Nova Scotian boys in South Africa somewhere, and if I reach that country in good time I will have a “turn” at the Boers myself.
From New Whatcom here, 60 miles, I found plenty of mud, falling in two or three times, and when I got here I didn’t know myself,and the first fellow I met was Ed. D. Putnam formerly of Blanchard, Bently & Co.’s Truro. He didn’t know me either but he know my bicycle all right, and that made it ok. I put my wheel in “Put’s” store and borrowed a coat from him and next morning I took my muddy coat to John Hay, formerly of Truro and he passed it on to Wm Fraser, another Truro boy, who cleaned it up for me. No sooner had I got on the street again than I met Mr. S.J. Thomas, late of the Truro Milk Co. who said come with me. I followed him to his hotel and found Linwood Boomer, Barney Christie, Al Carter, Evens Thomas and Al Fisher, all from Truro who were all there when I left.
I started up the street to see Mr. and Mrs. Herb Creelman, from Truro, and on my way I met the Misses Forbes and McKinlay, from Truro also. I found Creelman’s all right and the way I knew the place was, I saw Duncan McDonald’s mother out in the garden gathering roses. I guess it is too late for roses in Nova Scotia. In a few minutes along came Dunc’s brother Hugh. I began to think I was in Truro again.
There are eight of us boarding at one hotel, all from Truro, and when George Smith (Denver) comes along, there will be nine of us. He is on a trip to Atlin on business. I have seen considerable country since I left home, and none of it could touch Nova Scotia as far as I could see. I came through the finest fruit belt of Michigan and passed through the famous fruit belts of Washington, via Walla, Walla and North Yakima, and there were not “so much”. Guess Annapolis and Cornwallis Valley could beat them alright.
This town is not bad, only it rains all the time, although it cleared up 15 minutes ago and looks though it might stay fine for 20 minutes longer. I guess Nova Scotia is all right; of course no two persons think alike; others may think these places are all right.
I spent more time in Whatcom County than Karl, exploring the towns of Bellingham, Blaine and Fairhaven.
One of Bellingham’s most notable landmarks is Old City Hall, with its four spires and clock tower. The building was constructed in 1892 and is a testament to the city's late Victorian architectural heritage. Local architect Alfred Lee’s design, pulled from various catalogues, won the project. Despite delays caused by the 1893 economic depression, the second and third floors were completed in 1910.
After New Whatcom and Fairhaven merged in 1904 to form Bellingham, the City Hall continued in use until 1939, when a newer city hall was constructed. Although it was nearly demolished, the building was saved, and today, it’s home to the Whatcom Museum. Remains of its former use are still visible, such as jail bars and a padded cell in the basement, a reminder of its days as a police station.
When Karl passed through, the area was booming with sawmills, tapping into Washington’s rich timber resources. By 1926, the first pulp and paper mill was built and operated until 2001. During my visit, I photographed the old pulp and paper mill industrial site, featuring the 438,000-pound Acid Ball and the iconic Digester Tanks.
I got my book stamped to document my visit to Whatcom at the local post office, also known as the Federal Building. Built in 1912, its Renaissance-style architecture made it a key landmark. Historically, the building functioned as a courthouse, post office, and government office.
While Karl’s only remark about Whatcom County was its muddy streets, I saw a town embracing its past while reimagining its future—from Old City Hall to the remnants of the once-thriving pulp and paper industry.
Next week, we will be back in Canada. I hope you’ll join me in Vancouver!
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