In Karl’s letter in the Montreal Star newspaper on April 14, 1901 he goes on to say:

“Right near the opera house, the post office and other important buildings are the Ezbekiyya Gardens and stepping aboard a fine electric tram one is soon taken to the spot of Mokattam hills, where the ascent is begun to the Citadel on the back of a faithful Egyptian donkey. After a steep climb, the Citadel or El-Kalah is reached and found to be like a little walled town enclosed in a larger one, built-in 1146 and again repaired by Muhammed-Ali Pasha in 1811, it contains an old cannon factory; the Mosque of Muhammed-Ali, which is the burial place of the founder of the Khedives Dynasty, a printing press and Joseph’s well cut in the solid rock 280 ft deep 700 years ago and so deep that when a stone is dropped down one can scarcely hear it strike bottom and then not until, what seems to be all of a minute, has passed by. It is about 22 ft across the mouth.

A splendid view of Cairo and all the surrounding country is obtainable from the top of the Citadel. The ruins of old Cairo, the suburbs of Boulaq and Djrah, the site of Memphis, the Pyramids of Giza and Sakkara, the obelisk of Heliopolis and the ruins of El Matareya; also a good view of over 300 miles of the river Nile winding in and out.”

In light of the absence of trams, and, I confess, dear reader, I wasn't too thrilled about the idea of traveling by donkey, so I opted for a taxi to reach the Citadel. Throughout the entire journey (as detailed in Post #153), I was crossing my fingers, hoping to arrive in one piece and avoid becoming another Egyptian traffic statistic.

Situated roughly 15 to 25 minutes from Downtown Cairo in the Mokattam Hills and perched on a steep slope in Cairo, the Citadel of Saladin stands as a historical marvel, adorned with the towering minarets of the Muhammad Ali Mosque.

Salah El-Din Al-Ayyubi, commonly known as Saladin, marked the first ruler of the Ayyubid dynasty and the Sultan of Egypt from 1171 to 1193. He initiated the construction of the Citadel in 1176, utilizing stones from small pyramids in Giza. He erected the Citadel as a royal residence and a defense against Crusader attacks, employing advanced construction techniques of the time.The fortress, completed in 1182, boasts four gates, 13 towers, and numerous palaces, mosques, and museums, including the National Police Museum and National Military Museum. Throughout history, the Citadel has also functioned as a seat of government for various dynasties, including the Ayyubids, Mamluks, and Ottomans.

One of the Citadel's iconic landmarks is the Muhammad Ali Mosque, commissioned by Muhammad Ali Pasha in memory of his son. Muhammad Ali ruled Egypt for 43 years and is renowned as the "father of modern Egypt." He completed the mosque in 1848 which is also known as the Alabaster Mosque, named for its predominant use of alabaster. The mosque design showcases Ottoman architecture and the inspiration comes from the same engineer who designed Turkey's Hagia Sophia.

Muhammed Ali Mosque is known for its 52-meter-high dome, supported by four columns, and two Turkish-style minarets, commanding the highest point in Cairo. The mosque comprises two sections: the eastern part, called Beit al-Salah, is dedicated to prayer that can accommodate 4000 people featuring French-style decorations with wood carvings, over 100 colored stained glass windows, and marble floors. On the western side, known as "Al-Sahn," a spacious courtyard houses the ablution fountain and a copper clock tower, sent from King Louis-Philippe of France to Egypt in 1846 as a gift to Muhammad Ali.

The clock, my guide informed me, never worked from the day it was gifted. It was Egypt’s first public ticking clock, and despite attempted repairs in 1943 and 1984, the ticking was short-lived. Finally, in 2021, the Egyptian government restored the clock to working order, well, for now.

Situated in the Mokattam Hills within Islamic Cairo, the Citadel remains a significant medieval fortification with towering walls, massive towers, and gates. Over 700 years, it housed Egypt's rulers and witnessed architectural additions, including three distinct mosques and several palaces, some now serving as museums. Despite its military history, the Citadel has transformed into a tourist attraction, offering panoramic views of Cairo. On clear days, such as my visit, you can see all the way to the distant Pyramids in Giza.

Cairo is often called the "City of 1,000 Mosques," and from that birds eye view at the top of the Citadel I couldn’t count all the mosques but I certainly heard them. The timing of my visit coincided with the call to prayer, or the adhan. Dear reader, the call to prayer is one of my most favourite sounds when travelling in the middle east, I find it exudes a meditative, contemplative, and soothing sound. I could listen to it all day long and so I’m glad for the Islamic doctrine requiring prayer 5 times a day: Fajr (dawn), Dhuhr (afternoon), Asr (late afternoon), Maghrib (after sunset), and Isha (nighttime). The exact timing of the adhan is determined essentially by the position of the Sun in the sky. In small towns, the call is subtle, but in Cairo at the top of the Citadel, seemingly in precise harmony with the Muhammad Ali Mosque, it resonates throughout the city streets, creating a harmonious echo with other mosques.