The best way to get from Melbourne to Sydney today is the A1 Coastal Route—winding along Australia’s southern coastline, with ocean views and sleepy beach towns. That’s the way I would have gone. But in 1900, Karl didn’t have that option. The A1, otherwise known as the Princes Highway wouldn’t be built until 1920, which left the Hume ‘Freeway’—now the M31—but at the time it was barely more than a track through the bush. Karl’s route was the same overland path first mapped in 1824 by Hamilton Hume and William Hovell, later worn in by drovers, mail coaches, and an increasing number of long-distance cyclists.
By the late 19th century, cycling wasn’t just a weekend hobby—it was a movement. Bicycle clubs popped up everywhere, charting routes, pushing for better roads, and inadvertently laying the groundwork for Australia’s future highways. When Karl pedalled through in 1900, the ‘safety’ bicycle had taken hold, making long-distance rides more accessible. He rode through Albury, Goulburn, and Yass, and on toward Picton and Liverpool—then the final stretch into Sydney.
But unlike Karl, at Yass, I veered off-course—south, into Australia’s capital city.
On January 1, 1901, Australia became a federation, uniting six colonies into the Commonwealth of Australia. But where to put the capital? That was another matter entirely. Sydney and Melbourne both wanted the title, and neither was willing to concede. The compromise: the capital had to be at least 160 km from Sydney, and until it was built, Parliament would sit in Melbourne.
After years of back and forth, a remote site was picked in 1908—rolling hills, open plains, and, as they said at the time, “bracing mountain air.” The name? Canberra, from the Ngunnawal word Kamberra—“meeting place.” It was to be a city designed from scratch, and an international competition was held to plan it. The winning vision came from American architects Walter Burley Griffin and Marion Mahony Griffin—tree-lined boulevards, geometric symmetry, and a city wrapped around water and green space.
Built for politics, Canberra is more than just Parliament House. It’s home to the Australian War Memorial, the National Gallery, and a whole spread of museums and institutions.
Karl pressed on toward Sydney, but after leaving Canberra, I swung back to the coast—beaches, blowholes, and sea cliffs—before meeting up with him again, right where his wheels touched Sydney’s streets.
If you are new to the Karl Chronicles, get caught up on our expedition around the world!
Start here: 200 highlights from 200Chronicles
Then get caught up on the rest of our journey, click here for more Karl Chronicles
Click here to check out my art store
The Karl Journey is now registered as an official expedition with the Royal Geographical Society