From Spokane, Karl and I travelled west to Ellensburg, where he wrote: "At Ellensburg, Washington, I found half the town looking at a pumpkin that was just brought to town. It was a wonder to them. I saw lots twice as big in Upper Stewiacke years ago."

While Karl was captivated by the sights of Ellensburg, I found myself drawn further north to the unique charm of Leavenworth.

Originally called Icicle Flats, the area was settled around 1885 as a trading post between the first European settlers and the local Indigenous Americans. However, by 1890, Icicle Flats grew as gold, timber, and fur seekers flooded the region, and the town was renamed Leavenworth. The railroad's arrival at the turn of the century fueled rapid growth, transforming it into a bustling logging hub. But the town's fortunes declined sharply when the railroad rerouted its tracks. For over thirty years, Leavenworth hovered on the brink of becoming a ghost town as businesses shuttered and families moved away in search of better opportunities.

Faced with an uncertain future, town leaders in the early 1960s devised a bold strategy: transform Leavenworth into a Bavarian-themed village to attract visitors. Inspired by the majestic alpine backdrop of the Cascade Mountains, which resembles Bavaria, they set out to recreate the town’s appearance with authentic German architecture and charm.

But the transformation wasn’t just skin deep. The entire community embraced the theme, introducing a series of Bavarian-inspired festivals to immerse visitors in the experience. Events like Oktoberfest, Maifest, and the now-famous Christmas Lighting Festival continue to draw large crowds, adding to the town’s lively atmosphere.

The revitalization was a resounding success. Leavenworth has since become one of the premier tourist destinations in the Pacific Northwest, welcoming over a million visitors annually.

Karl wasn’t here in 1899, but if he had been, dear reader, I doubt he would have recognized the Leavenworth of today. Sidetracked for brats, beers, and schnitzel? Absolutely. Bavaria in Washington is too good to resist.

After indulging in Bavarian fare (and more than my share of schnitzel), I thought some exercise was in order. Harkening back to Leavenworth's early days as Icicle Flats, I decided to hike the Icicle Gorge River Loop. The trail offered a welcome contrast—less oom-pah-pah and more tranquillity, as I meandered through peaceful forested paths along the river, experiencing a slice of the natural beauty Karl might have encountered.