Dear reader, welcome to our sesquicentennial post! Let me bring you up to speed.
Starting from Karl's home in Truro, Nova Scotia, my first 50 chronicles detailed an excursion to Ireland, followed by tales of my travels west to Ontario, south into Illinois, then back north through Wisconsin, ending in North McGregor, Iowa. After that, beginning in Marquette, Iowa, in chronicle #51, I ventured to North Dakota, re-entered Canada in Manitoba, and journeyed westward to Fort Macleod, Alberta. Chronicle #80 marked when I met Karl in Europe, exploring Belgium, France, and the Netherlands before concluding in Falkirk, Scotland. The subsequent 50 chronicles documented the remainder of my Scottish adventures and, most recently, my explorations with Karl in India.
And here we stand, at the milestone of the 150th Chronicle.
For this special sesquicentennial, I'm thrilled to share a fictional interview between our intrepid Nova Scotian explorers, Karl Creelman and Louise Trotter. This conversation, published in the December edition of Wanderlust magazine, occurred in the opulent Imperial Hotel in New Delhi—the last stop where Karl and Louise were together before Karl's journey to Bombay and Louise's detour to Jaipur.
The Imperial Hotel was built in 1936 as the inaugural hotel in New Delhi and stands as a regal tribute to 19th-century Indian palaces and days of Maharajas with a blend of architectural styles. Nestled on an eight-acre estate, the hotel exudes opulence with its white marble colonnades, verdant gardens, and rooms adorned with Italian marble, polished Burma teak, Persian carpets and antique chandeliers. Beyond its luxurious ambience, The Imperial holds a rich legacy, hosting historical gatherings and playing a role in discussions on India's independence with distinguished guests, including Mahatma Gandhi.
Bridging more than 120 years, our world travellers met Sir Michael Palin, English actor, travel writer, documentarian, explorer and television presenter, in the Patiala Peg, a bar styled after the British Raj and nestled within The Imperial Hotel. The Peg is famed for its distinctive measure of whiskey, the legacy of which is credited to Maharajah Singh, who reigned from 1900 to 1938.
Seated together, Karl and Louise occupied a green leather banquette beneath a gallery adorned with antique prints and photographs dating back to the 1900s. A polished round mahogany table, with bowls of salty snacks and their respective libations, served as the focal point between them and the designated interviewer, hailing from London, England. Having learned of the intrepid Nova Scotians, Sir Michael was eager to engage in a formal interview in consideration for a future BBC travel programme, choosing to meet the duo in Delhi.
Sir Michael: “So, how did you two meet?”
Louise: “In 2016, I noticed a decorative painted mural running parallel to the tracks the length of the railway station platform in Truro, Nova Scotia. The mural was quirky and sweet, depicting the history of the town, and I was struck by one of the scenes of a boy riding a bicycle with a sign that read: Karl M. Creelman Around the World. When I returned home, I started my research by finding a reference about a young man from Truro who was the first Canadian to bicycle around the world, travelling from 1899 to 1902. I was intrigued by Karl’s story, and then, for the next few years, I spent countless hours at the Colchester Historical Archives researching all the records related to Karl’s journey.”
Sir Michael: “Karl, what prompted you to do this? I would imagine this was quite a difficult journey back in 1899?”
Karl: “Quite simply, I wanted to look around and gain a bit of experience. After Jules Verne set Phileas Fogg on his mission Around the World in Eighty Days, the allure of travel captured my interest. I had heard all about my fellow Nova Scotian Joshua Slocum, who, in 1895, was the first man in recorded history to sail around the world single-handedly. And I also had those dreams to see the world.”
Sir Michael: But why on a bicycle? Are you a skilled cyclist?
Karl: “Well, I am now, having biked almost the entire circumference of the world, but when I set out, it was only my third time riding a bicycle. My transportation option was more practical than purposeful. Recall that back then, the Wright brothers had yet to have a successful airplane flight, and although cars had been invented, the first imported cars hadn’t yet arrived in Nova Scotia. Also, I didn’t have much money, so I travelled by my trusty Red Bird bicycle on land, walked if the roads were not accessible, and took passage aboard ships to cross the oceans.”
Sir Michael: “And Louise, as you set out to be authentic to Karl’s journey, did you consider also travelling by bicycle?”
Louise: “No, that prospect did not cross my mind. Although I enjoy cycling, I had no intention or desire to travel around the world by bicycle. Instead, I mapped out Karl’s route that I would complete in segments but was preparing to take full advantage of modern transportation.”
Sir Michael: “Obviously, Louise, you have had the easier journey to date!”
Louise: “Well, in the respect that I have been able to get to my destinations much faster than Karl, it has been easier for me. But while modes of travel were limited for Karl, taking him much longer to get from place to place, he was not delayed by security screenings or customs documentation upon arrival. That’s because when Karl travelled around the world, he could move freely throughout the British Empire, which included Canada, Australia, Sri Lanka, India, Egypt, and parts of Europe. He simply wrote to the British consuls at most of the foreign countries he expected to visit, and for the most part, he received back cordial invitations to visit them en route.”
Karl: “Don’t forget, Louise, I also had five letters of recommendation from distinguished Canadians endorsing my character including Sir Wilfred Laurier, Prime Minister of Canada, George Henry Murray, Premier of Nova Scotia, and the Mayor of Truro, George W. Stuart.”
Louise: “Of course, Karl, how could I forget? You spoke about it in many of your interviews while traveling.”
Sir Michael: “I know Karl spent ten months researching his trip and mapping out his course in detail and Louise, yours was even longer as you needed to complete all the research related to Karl’s journey. So a question for both of you — did everything go according to plan?”
Karl: “Within the first 40 km of my trip, my plans changed! The short journey to Acadia Mines required that I had to walk 10 km because of the poor quality of the roads; this happened frequently in North America. Then in France I fell in with strong headwinds and heavy rain, making cycling awfully hard, 150 miles being the amount I covered in a whole week, so I changed my route and missed seeing Paris. Then before I arrived here in India, I was really keen to visit China and Japan but couldn’t get a passage from Australia because of the impact from the Boxer Rebellion.”
Louise: “I originally mapped out a 75,000 km journey, ensuring I’d travel to every location Karl documented on his trip. But then I added to my itinerary some of those places Karl originally planned to visit and other locations that have been on my own bucket list. But my plans were impacted right from the start as my travel was planned for 2020, which was delayed because of the pandemic. Since then, my only plan is to make sure I visit every place that Karl did.
Sir Michael: “Well, apart from disrupted plans, has anything gone terribly wrong that made you want to give up your expedition?”
Karl: “I had a number of falls off my bicycle, most of them involving cows getting in my way but fortunately no broken bones. On a Saturday night when I was in Chicago, I was robbed of a brand new pair of suspenders for which I had paid exactly 13 cents, just one short hour before. Then when I arrived at Garden Reach in Calcutta, I briefly left the ship, and upon return, I found some local lads had taken my straps out and divided all my belongings amongst them. Half of my clothes were gone (all my socks, shirts, ties, collars, etc.), also a lot of nick-nacks consisting of a collection of coins, two new inner tubes for the bicycle, and some other things.”
Louise: “Don’t forget, Karl, you contracted malaria and ended up in the hospital in Benares, but by the way, we call it Varanasi now.”
Karl: “It’s not that I forgot; it’s just that it really wasn’t so terrible because after leaving the hospital, I spent 10 weeks recovering in the company of the Black Watch Scottish Regiment of the British Army. Those soldiers became my friends, and it was during that time that I set up an invitation to meet the Maharajah.”
Louise: “I am in awe of you, Karl. You faced every obstacle with such a positive attitude and didn’t let any hardship dampen your enthusiasm. I’m sure if I had those challenges, I may have given up on the journey.”
Sir Michael: “Karl, what has been your favourite experience or places you have seen so far?”
Karl: “I went thirty miles out of my way on purpose to see this famous Giant’s Causeway, and when I arrived at the place, it was all fenced in, and it cost one shilling admission. I wrote a lot in my letters about my travels through Scotland; in particular, I found that Edinboro’ a beautiful city indeed — more handsome by far than any place yet seen by me in my travels. I was also in awe of a wonderful piece of architecture, the celebrated Mausoleum of the Taj Mahal, with its beautiful domes and gardens. The exquisite beauty of this wonder stands unrivalled in my opinion.”
Sir Michael: “And you, Louise, what have been your favourite places?”
Louise: “The Giant’s Causeway was indeed spectacular, and I would agree with Karl about the wonder of the Taj Mahal. And although I do like Edinburgh, it was my visit to Theodore Roosevelt National Park in North Dakota I consider a highlight.”
Karl: “But Louise, I didn’t go there, so what were you doing there?”
Louise: “I started incorporating “side tracks” into my journey so that if I were close enough to another place of interest, I would take the time and deviate from your route. I have taken a lot of side tracks from Ministers Island in New Brunswick, Waterton Park, Orkney Island, the Outer Hebrides, and tomorrow I’m heading to Jaipur.”
Sir Michael: “So even though you have travelled the same route, you have had different experiences. Let me ask you, Louise, what did you admire the most about Karl’s journey?”
Louise: “For Karl to travel to India, he had to get passage there by steamship and to pay for the transportation, he needed to work. He was employed for the duration of the journey as a ‘hostler'—part of a 3-person team overseeing 230 Waler horses destined for service with the Bengal Lancers regiment. Karl worked tirelessly for 15 to 16 hours daily for the 32 days at sea, handling what he vividly described as wild, unbroken horses. If our roles were reversed, I can't help but feel I would still be in Australia, as I don't believe I am as brave as Karl.”
Karl: “Gosh, thanks Louise, but I was intent on getting around the world and, at the end of the day, there was little choice in how I could make that happen given my lack of financial means.”
Sir Michael: Karl, as you read through the Karl Chronicles more than 120 years after your travels, are there any experiences Louise had that you would have liked?
Karl: “Ah, the Karl Chronicles! It warms my heart to know that my tales are still spinning their wheels through time. Now, Louise, she's got this marvelous advantage with her digital camera. If only I had the luxury of freezing those moments in more than a dozen plates! Her ability to visually capture the unchanged beauty of places, well, that's a marvel I'd have loved to add to my repertoire. The world through the lens—what a splendid concept!"
Louise: “The quest for those original 12 plates continues, like a treasure hunt through time. Australia might just hold the key to unlocking the mystery. Capturing the essence of our shared journey has indeed been a joy, especially in those corners of the world where time seems to have stood still from your era to mine. Currently, I'm weaving your documentation of postmarks and autographs into fine art prints. They will be a blend of past and present, our shared expedition.”
Sir Michael: "Karl, reflecting on the profound impact your journey has had, not only on the pages of history but also inspiring Louise to embark on her own expedition and artistic pursuits, how do you perceive the interconnectedness of these two distinct moments in time?
Karl: “The fact that my humble tale continues to inspire is both flattering and delightful. It's truly astonishing to fathom that my journey, undertaken more than a century ago, serves as a wellspring of inspiration for Louise's modern-day expedition. The continuum of exploration, transcending eras, speaks to the enduring allure of the open road. I never anticipated my story resonating with someone in the future. And the serendipity of you meeting the great-grandson of the Maharajah I encountered in 1900 adds an incredible layer of connection.”
Louise: “Absolutely, Karl. The fact that your journey, rich in tales from another era, could bridge the gap and fuel my own exploration is nothing short of remarkable. The Maharajah connection is like a thread weaving through time, a testament to the continuity of our journeys. It’s still surreal to think about.”
Sir Michael: “Louise, if you could step into a time machine and share one moment with Karl, where would it be and why?”
Louise: “Oh, that’s an easy one. I'd choose to meet Karl in Glasgow. When he was there in 1901, the international exhibition took place on 73 acres of land at Kelvingrove Park. International pavilions were complete with Gondolas and Gondoliers brought from Venice, offering rides along the river. Karl wrote about this experience, indicating that the Canadian pavilion with its water chute was the most popular attraction. My time machine would transport me to that era, joining Karl on the flat-bottomed boat as it plunges into the river.”
Sir Michael: “And Karl, if you had the chance to journey into the future and meet up with Louise, is there anything specific you would do differently?”
Karl: “Ah, the marvels of time travel! I'd undoubtedly choose to join Louise on her sidetrack through southern India, especially in Puducherry (the French region) and the Chettinad region of Tamil Nadu. However, this time, I'd ensure I packed a reliable supply of malaria pills—lessons learned from the past!”
Sir Michael: “Louise, as we bring this sesquicentennial post to a close, is there anything you'd like to share as a final reflection?”
Louise: “Karl has led me to places I never anticipated visiting: Fargo, Medicine Hat, Stirling, and Kolkata, each holding its own unexpected charm. And then there are the wonderful people I've encountered on this journey, echoing the spirit of exploration. Like you, Karl, I keep a postmark and signature book, now adorned with heartfelt sentiments from fellow wanderers I've met across the globe. It's a special moment to sit together and express my sincere 'thank you, Karl' in person. Following your path has brought me joy and purpose and opened the door to more places yet to be explored.”
Louise: “Let’s raise our glasses and toast to our shared tales and adventures. Cheers, Karl, you've been my guiding star on this expedition, and I'm immensely grateful for the inspiration you've provided me.”
Karl: “And here's a hearty 'Cheers' right back at you, Louise, my modern-day fellow wanderer. To the roads we've travelled, the stories we've shared, and the ones yet to unfold. You're carrying the Globe Trotter legacy forward in splendid fashion.”
Concluding this remarkable milestone, dear reader, I’ve written 150 Chronicles, marking just a third of our incredible journey. Your company has been invaluable. May the allure of exploration continue to captivate your imagination. Cheers to the next leg of our extraordinary expedition!
In case you’ve missed them, click here for more Karl Chronicles
The Karl Journey is now registered as an official expedition with the Royal Geographical Society