I was trying not to stand out as a woman travelling solo through the southern districts of Iran. But with my camera slung over my shoulder, overstuffed backpack, brightly coloured headscarf wrapped over my hair and returning every warm smile received from a stranger with a greeting of “salaam” (clearly revealing that Farsi is not my native language), I definitely don’t blend in.
Instead, easily identified as a tourist, the inevitable first question I’m asked by a local is: “where are you from?” Generally, when I’m asked this question, the specifics of my answer (i.e. City and Province, or perhaps just Country) will depend on where I am currently travelling, appreciating different countries have varying familiarity with North American geography. But when I respond that I’m from Canada or even more specifically from Nova Scotia, it is not where I’m from, it’s just part of my story of where I’m currently local.
In Taiye Seasiat’s talk from TEDGlobal 2014 she states that “all identity is experience” and “experiences are local” and these experiences are rooted in rituals, relationships and restrictions. So although much of my identity is based on experiences as a Canadian - some of those as an “Upper Canadian”, and others more recently as a “Maritimer”. The other part of my story, another part of my identity, are those experiences from my early childhood in Washington Village, a town located equally from the centres of Newcastle, Durham and Sunderland in the North East of England.
When I consider the place of my childhood, it is visually represented for me by a monument that I could see from my bedroom window. A monument that upon first sight after being away for a day as a child or years as an adult, is the “welcome back to your home” landmark, Penshaw Monument.
The monument was built in 1844 on Penshaw Hill between my district of Washington and neighbouring Houghton-le-Spring. Dominating the local landscape at 446 feet above sea level it is a half-sized replica of the Temple of Hephaestus in Athens. But there is nothing Greek about this landscape which is instead green hills flecked with dots of white sheep and grazing cows. Essentially, a typical, British, country landscape albeit for the Greek temple that sits overlooking this scenery.
Although commonly known and referred to as Penshaw Monument, the landmark is officially called the Earl of Durham’s Monument and dedicated to John Lambton, the 1st Earl of Durham, and ironically the first Governor of the Province of Canada.
The idyllic scenery that is Penshaw Hill is quintessential of the United Kingdom and the Republic of Ireland. Where there is a convergence of a stunning natural landscape, sheep or cows in a pasture, an historical town, perhaps with a medieval castle or church, or simply an historical monument. I like to think that Penshaw Monument epitomizes that connection of my experiences, my identity, of where I am from to where I am local.
It’s this frame of reference of where I have been “local” that influences where I seek to travel and my curiosity and interest to learn where others are local and their rituals, relationships and restrictions. So I am always pleased to have the opportunity to say, “salaam” and look forward to the conversation that follows.