In a letter to Mattie dated November 13th, 1900, written from Benares (now Varanasi) on the paper with the emblem of 42 Royal Highlanders, Karl writes:
“Have just been counting up the distances I have travelled during the last 18 months, 34,350 miles, 9,380 of which were done on the bike. I have 78 pages of my route book full of the post office stamps, corporation seals, railway stamps and some private stamp marks. Also the Maharajah of Benares seal, I called on him and was introduced by his Secretary, he is Sir. Prabbu Narayan Singh Bahadur, GCSE one of the surviving Nation Kings”
Dear reader, within Karl's captivating tales of his travels in India, there lies a particular story that deeply resonates with me, shedding light on his character. But before we delve into this narrative, let us first set the stage by revisiting the historical context.
Prior to British colonization, India was a land of diverse "princely states," each governed by their rulers under the vast umbrella of the Mughal Empire. During the British arrival, around 350 families held sway over one-third of India, while the remaining territories were under the control of the Mughals and other prominent kingdoms.
As the power dynamics shifted from the Mughal Empire to the British Empire, it became evident that effective governance in India required the support of more allies. Thus, an alliance with Queen Victoria was forged through courtship, wherein the rulers of these princely states were offered money, prestige, and titles in exchange for relinquishing some autonomy and pledging loyalty to the Crown. This mutually beneficial trade resulted in the establishment of an additional 250 princely states, further consolidating the strength of British rule.
These esteemed rulers were granted titles such as Maharaja (if they belonged to the Hindu or Sikh faith), which translates to "great ruler/king," or Nawab, meaning "nobleman" (if they followed the Muslim faith). While some Maharajas held titles with little real power or significance, others commanded tremendous wealth and influence.
The affluence of a Maharaja depended on the size and population density of their princely domain, which in turn was sustained by the taxes levied on the villagers. The opulence displayed by these wealthy rulers varied greatly, ranging from the construction of grand palaces inspired by French and Italian architecture, possession of luxurious cars and exquisite jewels, to hosting extravagant public ceremonies that featured ornate thrones and even wild animals.
Legends and tales of their splendor abounded, such as one Maharaja rumoured to have 365 wives, a symbol of his wealth and stature. Another fascinating tale spoke of a Maharaja who commissioned jars made of pure silver, capable of holding over 4,000 liters of water, exclusively for his bathing and drinking requirements.
The history of the Maharajas, particularly during the early 1900s, exudes an irresistible allure of mystery, romance, and an enchanting era that seems almost otherworldly. It was an era of unparalleled grandeur and extravagance, vividly reflected in their distinctive clothing styles, opulent lifestyles, and regal ceremonies. The Maharajas held immense power and influence, presiding over vast and awe-inspiring territories.
During his recuperation from malaria at the barracks of the 42 Black Watch Regiment, Karl must have been captivated by this fascinating history. Driven by a daring spirit, he hatched a bold plan to send a postcard to the Maharaja of Benares, expressing his intent to visit and meet him in person. The soldiers, upon learning of Karl's audacious scheme, were both astonished and concerned, cautioning him about the potential repercussions, including the risk of arrest. Perhaps determined or simply curious, Karl wasn’t deterred.
Though still on the path to recovery and not fully fit to travel to Bombay, Karl managed to summon the strength to cycle four miles to the Maharaja's palace at Ramnagar. This excursion would become a remarkable chapter in Karl's adventures, etching a memory that he would later recount upon his return to Nova Scotia. His tale reached the ears of a journalist, who penned the account as follows:
The next day he rode out on his bike to the palace. At the gate two Bengal tigers were chained, one on each side of the road, but the keeper pulled them back and allowed him to pass. The marble, the gold and precious stones made a scene that was bewildering. An attendant, brilliantly dressed, took him into a reception room. A dark-skinned local man came out, dressed in gold and purple, and the globe-trotter, taking him for the Maharaja, made his best salaam —in duly studied language— greeted His Highness and wished he and his many wives a long and happy life. When Karl had at last finished, the “great” person replied: “All right, the Maharaja will be here in about a minute.”
When the Maharaja came in, dressed in ordinary clothes, Karl was so dumbfounded that he could only say “How are you”? I’m glad to see you.” The Maharaja remarked. “I see you Americans don’t stand on ceremony.” His Highness made Karl stay for dinner and presented him with 500 rupees, worth about $165 dollars.
A picture taken in 1900, His Highness Maharaja Prabhu Narayan Singh, the Maharaja can be seen wearing a necklace adorned with pearls, emeralds, and diamonds, showcasing his immense wealth.
Karl’s steadfast determination resulted in an opportunity, no matter if slightly imposed, to meet His Highness Maharaja Prabhu Narayan Singh, the 36-year-old ruler of Varanasi, who would reign for an impressive 42 years. He succeeded his uncle, Sir Ishwari Prasad Narayan Singh (r.1835-1889) who was the first from the ruling family of Benares, the Narayan dynasty to hold the title of Maharaja at the age of 13.
Following Maharaja Prabhu Narayan Singh's reign, his only son, Sir Aditya Narayan Singh, ascended the throne. However, his reign was regrettably short-lived, lasting only seven and a half years before his passing in 1939 at the age of 64. After Sir Aditya Narayan's demise, the succession passed to his adopted son, Sir Kumar Vibhuti Narayan Singh, who also was the great-nephew to Maharaja Prabhu Narayan Singh.
The Narayan dynasty ruled Benares until they acceded to independent India in 1948. Then, the Monarchy was officially abolished in 1971. Today, while the majority retain their titles and historical significance, only a few royal families continue to lead lives of luxury. Many former palaces have been transformed into upscale hotels or tourist attractions, with private quarters reserved for the remaining royal families who continue to thrive.
So what happened to the Narayan dynasty lineage?
Sir Kumar Vibhuti Narayan Singh assumed the title of Maharaja at the young age of 11 and ruled until he passed away at the age of 73. During his reign, he had four children, three daughters, and a son, Sir Anant Narayan Singh, who currently holds the esteemed title of Maharaja of Benares in what is now known as Varanasi.
In my pursuit of following in Karl’s footsteps, I was keen to see Ramnagar Palace and find out if it was possible for me to also meet with the Maharaja of Benares. I inquired with my work colleagues who had recently emigrated to Nova Scotia from India if anyone had connections, no matter how tenuous, to the Varanasi Royal family. My questions were met with smiles suggesting my naiveté on the prospect of meeting the Maharaja, mirroring the reactions Karl received from the 42 Highlander Soldiers. But, Karl and I are kindred spirits and like my muse, I was undeterred by the unanimous doubts. So before leaving for India, I set my plans in motion to try and meet the Maharaja of Varanasi.
But I’ll save that story until next week.
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