Karl arrived in Alexandria from Cairo on April 4, 1901. The Alexandria of today and of Karl’s visit differ greatly from the ancient city. Located in the northwest of Egypt alongside the Mediterranean Sea, it is today the country's main seaport, boasting a population of over four million.

Named after Alexander the Great when he conquered ancient Egypt in 332 BC, Alexandria was, for hundreds of years, Egypt's capital and the site of the Pharos (lighthouse), one of the seven wonders of the ancient world.

The Lighthouse of Alexandria, constructed on the island of Pharos outside the harbour of Alexandria around 300 - 280 BCE during the reigns of Ptolemy I and II, stood as a monumental structure estimated to be between 400 and 500 feet tall. Based on historical images, the lighthouse is described as a three-tiered design: square at the bottom, octagonal in the middle, and cylindrical at the top. After the pyramids of Giza, it was the tallest human-made structure in the world.

Though the Lighthouse of Alexandria endured for 17 centuries, it vanished from historical records after the 14th century, likely succumbing to an earthquake in the 1330s. Over the past 2,000 years, rising Mediterranean sea levels have submerged most of the ancient Alexandrian shoreline.

The lighthouse's enduring legacy, spanning over 1600 years, extends beyond its physical presence. It bestowed its Greek name 'Pharos' upon the architectural genre of any tower with a guiding light for mariners, influencing Arab minaret architecture. Did you know, dear reader, that the Arabic word for minaret and lighthouse is the same?

Archaeologists have mapped the underwater ruins with remnants near Qait Bay. Subsequently, in the 15th century, the lighthouse's foundations were used to build the Qaitbay Fort, also known as the Citadel of Qaitbay. This was a crucial defensive stronghold, pivotal during the Ottoman siege of 1517. It remained under Ottoman control until 1882, when the British captured it during the invasion of Egypt. Serving as a military base and prison until 1954, it was eventually handed over to the Egyptian government and is today a tourist attraction.

Characterized by geometric patterns and decorative elements, Qaitbay Fort offers breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea. On a clear day, one can supposedly see the coasts of Italy and Greece from its vantage point. While I may not have witnessed that particular view, my visit to the fort and standing on the foundation of the Lighthouse of Alexandria was indeed a memorable experience.