This is Iran: November 2017
As keen as I was to travel to Iran, like any place you travel to, you never truly know what to expect until you arrive. As a Canadian, since I was not permitted to travel independently I had engaged the services of a local guide to accompany me though Iran. I didn’t doubt for a moment that what I would see in Iran would be extraordinary and I wasn’t disappointed, but I was overwhelmed by the hospitality, generosity and friendliness of the people of Iran. I’m always grateful for having had opportunities to travel in my life, but that I was able to go to Iran, still seems amazing to me. I look at this collection of some of the highlights of my trip and can’t believe that I was in Naqsh-e Jahan Square (eating saffron ice-cream no less) and that I was bathed in a kaleidoscope of sunlight streaming through the stained glass windows of the pink mosque.
This trip inspired for me several vignettes that appear in my GlobeTrotter blog. How being in Iran triggered a memory of a favourite childhood book: The Land of Hidden Gems And that misconceptions about safety and acceptance of westerners in Iran couldn’t be further from the truth, as in Iran, you are welcome And quite frankly sometimes words failed me, when it came to describing the details of the architecture so Instead of 12 thousand words It doesn’t seem possible that I could walk amongst columns originating from 330 BC representing the Rise and Fall of an Empire. And that I met a man, who was my local guide, for whom the pride in his country, it’s history and culture reinforced why travel is transformative and yet as the differences between us, the greater the similarities, When you think your neighbours hen is a goose
The photo essay below, showcases those highlights from Isfahan to Yazd to Shiraz.
Jameh Mosque of Isfahan is the oldest Friday (congregational) mosque in Iran.Starting in ad 841, this is the oldest preserved mosque of its type in Iran and a prototype for later mosque designs. At the center of the old city, the mosque shares walls with other buildings abutting its perimeter
This is the interior of one of the largest and most beautiful churches of Iran, the Jolfa Vank Cathedral, also known as “Church of the Saintly Sisters”. Dating back to about 400 years ago, it was built by Armenians who fled to this area of Isfahan when Armenia was part of the Persian Empire. It’s plain exterior has a striking contrast with the most beautiful decorated interior, laden with murals, floral motifs, carvings and paintings depicting the history of the Armenians and Biblical stories.
The city of Isfahan was once the capital of Iran and the square was laid out in the centre to signify the importance of the capital. The square was constructed in the 17thC is one of the largest squares in the world, bordered by four historical monuments on each side: Shah Mosque, Ali Qapu Palace, Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque and the Grand Bazaar.
The centre of the square is open and inviting and you’ll find water fountains, gardens, people strolling, saffron ice cream vendors, offers to drive you around the square in a horse and buggy, students sketching the architecture, and, passageways, like this one, accessed through beautiful arches that lead to the courtyards of these historical monuments.
Imam Mosque aka King Mosque or Royal Mosque regarded as one of the masterpieces of Persian architecture in the Islamic era and registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Its construction began in 1611, and its splendor is mainly due to the beauty of its seven-colour mosaic tiles and calligraphic inscriptions. The arch framed by turquoise ornament and decorated with rich stalactite tilework, a distinct feature of Persian Islamic architecture. At the sides rise two minarets, 42 meters high, topped by beautifully carved, wooden balconies with stalactites running down the sides.
Reaching 53 meters in height, the dome of the Masjed-e Shah would become the tallest in the city when it was finished in 1629. It was built as a double-shelled dome, with 14 meters spanning between the two layers, and resting on an octagonal dome chamber.
Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque was once called the Women's Mosque, because there is apparently a tunnel between this mosque and the Ali Qapu palace, allowing women from the old dynasties to attend prayers without being seen in public
Sheikh Lotfollah mosque is viewed by historians and visitors as one of the most important architectural projects built on Isfahan's Square representing the best example of architecture and tile work of Iran in the 17th century. The beauty of its buff dome fills visitors with enchantment.
Built at the very end of the 16th century as a residence for Shah Abbas I, this six-storey palace also served as a monumental gateway to the royal palaces that lay in the parklands beyond (Ali Qapu means ‘Gate of Ali’).
Named after Abbas’ hero, the Imam Ali, it was built to make an impression, and at six storeys and 38m tall, with its impressive elevated terrace featuring 18 slender columns, it dominates one side of Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam) Sq.
One of the two Shaking Minarets (Monar Jonban). These minarets are on the 14th century mosque built to cover the grave of Amu-Abdollah Soqla. When someone climbs into one minaret and shakes it, the other will shake in unison, allegedly because of the ratio between the height and width of the arch, and the shortness and lightness of the minarets.
A circular, raised structure built by Zoroastrians for dead bodies. They would lay their dead in concentric circles (feet pointing inwards), men on the outside ring, then women and children on the innermost ring. The flesh of the bodies was consumed by vultures and once the bones were bleached by sun and wind (after about a year) they would be collected in a pit and assisted by the addition of lime for disintegration.
The Zoroastrian fire temple in Yazd houses a flame that is said to have been burning since about AD 470. Only Zoroastrians can go into the area with the flame, but visitors can view it from the outside of a glass enclosure. The rest of the building serves as a museum with informative panels and photos detailing the Zoroastian religion.
The image of Faravahar, who represents the philosophy of the Zoroastrian religion. The significance of the two wings is the 3 main feathers symbolizing: Good Deeds, Good Thoughts and Good Words. Whereas the lower part represents: Bad reflection, bad words and bad deeds.
Caravanserais supported the network of trade routes covering Asia, North Africa, and southeastern Europe, in particular the Silk Road. They provided accommodation, security, food and amenities for travellers, servants, merchandise and their animals. There were hundreds of caravanserais throughout Iran, each designed in a similar fashion with a central courtyard open to the sky, guest rooms around the courtyard, covered passageways and verandas. Today the chambers around the courtyard are used as handicraft workshops or handicraft shops.
Zurkhaneh (literally House of Strength), the Sahab A Zaman Club is a traditional Iranian gymnasium for men. This one is located in a former water reservoir built in the 16thC, and the club is based on an ancient sport about 1000 years old, rooted in battles. Essentially, it is a series of activities to improve flexibility, strength, endurance that were supposed to make warriors out of ordinary men and prepare them for combat. Those who practice, meet weekly in the evenings and the group that I observed looked to be ranging in age from 12 to 65.
So in the photo, those “bowling pins” are all weighted (the bigger the heavier) and the participants will use them to lift them, throw them, juggle them, along with other pieces of equipment. The men also do a bit of “freestyle” and whirl, jump, and do a mind boggling number of regular and tricep pushups. The series of exercises are completed with a musical accompaniment (a man, singing and playing drums) so the movements are to the beat of the rhythm and a “lead” directing the next moves.
Nasir al-Mulk Mosque, also known as the Pink Mosque due to the incorporation of pink tile work on the mosque which was a new technique when it was constructed in 1886. As stunning as the tile work is, the highlight is the winter prayer room which was constructed with the stained glass windows to provide some warmth in the cold months. The morning light fills the room with a kaleidoscope of colours bouncing off the walls, the persian carpets and the tourists.
Persepolis - meaning, the “Persian city” was once the capital of the Acaemenid Empire (550-330BC).
It’s suggested that Cyrus the Great chose the site, but it was King Darius the Great, his son Xerxes and grandson Artaxerxes who built the palatial buildings for the rulers of the empire. Overall, there is 13-ha with stairways, reception rooms, columns are about 20m high, inscriptions, reliefs, tombs...essentially amazeballs overload!
If interested: short video on what this would have looked like:https://youtu.be/FFEE4cTCijs